London Fashion Week

Spring/Summer 2013

Part One



The first half of my coverage on London Fashion Week. Click on the image for a larger view.



Issa



Palette: An Amazonian rainforest of shades from palm green, pine yellow, mango, cerise and guava pink, violet, black and white.


Silhouettes: Floaty kaftans, mono-toned V-neck and halter strapped evening gowns that are nipped in the waist. Retro shapes, Seventies-style jumpsuits, toucan and flower printed frocks and trouser suits, wrap dresses fit to the floor and cut-outs.
Textiles: Georgette, jersey, cotton, silk, vivid tropical prints painted with florals and birds.
Theme: Tropical Island Glamour

Styling: Multi-strap sandals, chunky gold statement necklaces. Models wore orchids in their hair, which was styled in a high twisted bun. Makeup was flushed with a glossy red lip.


Marios Schwab


Palette: Burgundy, sooty black, ivory, Prussian blue and burnt orange.


Silhouettes: Tribal inspired V-neck dresses adorned with leather strips and metallic fringing, sheer pleated skirts, wide harness belts, lacy inserts, fringed peplums and long-sleeved glittery see-through evening gowns.
Textiles: Honeycomb print, raffia, fringing, cotton, leather, suede, lace and crystals. 
Theme: Warrior Maiden

Styling: Tribal war paint lined under the eyes, pink-blushed cheeks, glossy straightened hair tucked behind the ear and fringed gladiator sandals.


Mary Katrantzou



Palette: A kaleidoscopic blend of inky blue, cyan, forest green, purple, yellow, black, white and opalescent pastels in pink, lemon, mint and blue.


Silhouettes: Two-dimensionals silhouettes with sharpened edges, short bell sleeves, collared shirt dresses, halter necks, A-line skirts, spruced suits in plains and prints, pocket frocks, structured swing tops with pants and billowy free-flowing trapeze gowns.
Textiles: Global postage stamp and banknote digi-prints, brocade, denim, crystal mesh.  
Theme: Stamped in Digital Style
Styling: Hair was firmly pulled back in a knotted style, makeup featured a well-defined eye and nude lip. Heels were multi-coloured wide strap sandals.


Jonathan Saunders


Palette: Burgundy, scarlet, jade, lime green, powder blue, silver, gold, black and white.


Silhouettes: Figure-clinging mini skirts, casual shirts and ombre print trouser ensembles, colour-blocked slip dresses with V-wrap necklines, tailored suits and trench coats worn with bra-tops, side-paneled pants, and shiny sequined party frocks.
Textiles: Silk chiffon, leather, water-drop print, glazed metallics, sequins, chevrons & stripes.
Theme: Seventies Disco Sensibility
Styling: Tousled hair, plum glossed lips and boldly lined eyes. Models wore rounded sunglasses and leather cut-out sandals in neutral shades.


Matthew Williamson



Palette: A range of vivid shades in indigo, navy, saffron orange, aqua, cerulean blue, cerise pink, white and tangerine.


Silhouettes: Indian Holi inspired pieces in chic separates - cropped printed trousers, lightweight blouses, sleek dip-dyed blazers and shorts, slim sheaths and flirty dresses, beautifully draped evening gowns with high slits.
Textiles: Chiffon, silk, leather, prismatic powder blast prints, Tibetan landscape imagery, mirrored embellishments and beaded trims. 
Theme: An Electric Indian Summer
Styling: Ankle strap sandals, long tasseled necklaces, hair buns, a smokey eye and nude lips.


Temperley London



Palette: Crimson red, pale ice blues, cream, white, navy, black and grey. 


Silhouettes: Full flaired skirts, bustier tops overlaid with sheer fabric, halter-neck dresses, straight-fit maxi's, leg-lengthening slacks and jewel encrusted gossamer evening gowns. 
Textiles: Moroccan-mosaic inspired prints, sheer and solid stripes, silk, jacquard, mesh, ribbon embroidery and embellished tulle.
Theme: Crystal Sheer Opulence  

Styling: High bouffants, pink-hued lips, wide-brimed saucer hats with mosquito nets, rounded retro sunglasses and platform heels by Charlotte Olympia.


Peter Pilotto


Palette: A motley mix of yellow, black, white, turquoise, lime, red, orange and aqua.


Silhouettes: Cross-strap bodices, peplum tops, cut-out frocks, cropped jackets, narrow pants, asymmetric wrapped skirts, flared sleeves and flounced hemlines.
Textiles: Superfluity of innovative three-dimensional digital prints bedaubed with beaded embroidery.
Theme: A Plethora of Geometric Prints
Styling: The casual tossed back ponytail, light-toned makeup and strappy tie-up printed sandals by Nicholas Kirkwood.


Antonio Berardi


Palette: Invigorating pink, cobalt blue, grey, turquoise, ivory, black and white. 
Silhouettes: Expertly engineered shapes with strong, sporty lines. Exaggerated peplums with high-low hemlines, halter neck dresses in a patchwork of fabrics, boxy cropped jackets, masculine suits, sleeveless oversized vests, tunics, layering of dresses over skirts and narrow trousers, beautifully beaded evening gowns.
Textiles: Perforated mesh, chiffon, iridescent sequins, Aertex, geometric beading.
Theme: Urbane Architecture
Styling: Hair was worn back in twisted braids, makeup was subtle was a soft pink lip, models walked in cut-out leather heels.






Who's your pick from Part One of London Fashion Week? 

Please stay tuned for the second half of my coverage.



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